Happiness amongst the Confusion

How is it possible that I feel so alive here? Life here is a mixture of happy bliss and constant confusion. Nothing is easily accessible, I'm constantly complaining about the heat, dirty roads, stuffy and smelly trotro rides, my mobile phone never works, taxis and food stands try and rip me off because they know I'm a foreigner and I've eating a least a dozen of small insects. At first I was freaked out by the bugs I found in my room or roaming my plate of food, at this stage, I'm no longer looking for a napkin to swat them away but am using my fingers. I'm now comfortable bartering and almost yelling at the lady who sells me bananas in the morning whose prices varies depending on whether I'm in a hurry or not. She knows I know she's trying to rip me off, but she does it anyway and I feel like a jerk fighting over 50 cents. But I swear it's the principle of it all. The Ghanaians are boisterous, yelling and wailing their arms to make a point, but then laughing and hugging each other as if a shouting match is normal behaviour. I'm now adjusted to men starring at me like I've got two heads, I don't even mind the my ankles are covered with mosquito bites. I'm living in Africa and I guess it comes with the territory and despite all the discomfort and things that sometimes irritate me, I'm happy. I feel more alive and present than I have in years. I don't know what it is about this place, but it feels right. I don't have an identity here. No one expects anything of me. I get to be whoever I want. Not to say that I wasn't in New York, its just that here there aren't any real rules to follow. I'm a wanderer here. No rules apply and I have to say its really nice. Aside from moments of loneliness I can say that life here it good. I'm learning something new everyday.
Ghana is truly a melting pot of several things, there is a huge disparity of wealth, I've seen both sides. I've been in a village where kids eat out of a tin bowl on the ground covered in dirt, barely clothed and seen people sleeping on a grass mat practically on the side of the rode. I've also visited with friends who live in a large, central aired home with a guard, driver, and cook who prepares pizzas, brownies and cookies during the day. These experiences make me feel like I'm time traveling, sometimes I don't know what to make of it or how to explain it. There really isn't a middle class here and so it just seems really odd to me that you're either really rich or really poor.
Another mind boggling issue here is marriage. Marriage here is just a statement, not necessarily an institution or contract between man and woman like we know and understand it to be. The men here have affairs with several women and call them their wives. It's only in name the men don't provide for the women or children. The women sometimes seem OK with it and don't mind providing for their offspring alone. I've met some who have been hardened by the experience and swear off men completely. The men seem to have the best of both worlds, being single and having constant companionship upon request, without much responsibility.
I don't know that I really understand the roles of men and women here, but I'm really intrigued by them and hope to gain further insight while here.